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Meeting with… Lucas

Meeting with… Lucas


Very early on, Lucas developed an instinctive connection to the land and to Champagne, to the point where vineyards were all he could think about. Deeply rooted and never drawn to travel, his journey is all the more singular. From Burgundy to Singapore, and on to Ho Chi Minh City where he opened his own restaurant, he has carved out a path guided by wine. Passionate about vineyards both here and abroad, he now champions expressive, artisan cuvées, crafted above all to be shared and enjoyed. Meet with him.


Is there a place that holds particular meaning for you? Having spent many years away from our village, Celles-sur-Ource, it is always the places of my childhood that come back to me first. Without hesitation, the view from the airfield above the village. Beyond the vineyard landscape, there is the wind through the pines, birdsong, the summer scents of the fields and vines, and those soft, almost pastel colours. It is a place that stays with me every time, almost untouched, almost outside of time.


What is your tool of choice? A wine glass. I could have said a corkscrew, because I love opening, discovering, tasting. Whites, reds, other regions, other hands. It’s a real passion, and above all those moments of exchange with people who speak the same language, the language of wine. But in the end, less is more: with Champagne, a glass is enough.


Is there a sound you find particularly striking? It may sound strange, but… silence. True silence. Living part of the year in Saigon, in an environment of constant movement, I am surrounded by noise at all times. So when everything stops in the countryside, or even sometimes in the city, that silence, almost unreal, always strikes me. It has become a form of luxury.


Do you have a favourite material? Leather, without hesitation. Not in clothing, but the kind that lives and develops a patina: a mixologist’s apron, a coaster, or a fine wine list. The texture, the feel, the way time leaves its mark on it. It’s a material that holds traces, that tells a story without ever speaking.


What gesture or skill do you think is essential in life? I’m very hands-on, I’ve always learned by doing. The vines, the cellar, pottery, archery, building huts, tennis… my hands have always guided my learning. Even today, when I cook, I find exactly the same feeling. I love it. I don’t think it’s about one particular gesture, but rather a kind of instinctive common sense, knowing what feels right. From there, every gesture becomes essential.


What is your favourite texture? Running my hand over our Champagne barrels, or those of friends from the Beaune wine school. There’s something about that texture, the softness of a material that is, in essence, quite raw. And then the curve of the barrel, which heightens the sensation of the staves. That’s where memories come from. The bottles that came from them, those already opened and remembered… and the anticipation of those yet to come.


Is there a scent that takes you back to childhood? That’s not an easy one, there are so many, depending on the season, the place… But the first that comes to mind is the smell of cooking in the family home: ratatouille, vegetables from the garden… and above all those long summer lunches that stretch on, the heat of the sun, plates lingering on the table, conversations and laughter repeating themselves… and that scent, unchanged.


Which herb or spice could you not do without? For me, herbs immediately evoke summer. Walking a few steps into the garden, picking them at the last moment, almost just before sitting down to eat. It’s simple, but those are powerful memories. And over time, tastes evolve without you really noticing. Today, after several years in Southeast Asia, I naturally turn to chilli and soy sauce. I’d struggle to do without them.


What does your ideal Sunday look like? Simple. Waking early, taking time. It’s the only day when I can find myself just looking outside, fixing on a point… for a long while, without even realising it. Going for a run, or playing tennis. Then heading into the kitchen, preparing a generous brunch for a few friends. A good table, beautiful bottles, conversations that feel alive, real life, lived fully in each moment.


Is there a colour you are particularly drawn to? Since I was very young, I’ve always loved blue, quite a deep shade. It has followed me through every stage of my life, almost like a good-luck charm. I like the way it carries itself, too, especially in clothing. And today, 30 years on, that colour is part of the DNA of our project with my sister and brother. I love that.


What is your motto? Show must go on.” That’s my motto. A phrase I repeat to myself, almost without thinking. In my personal life, at work, in moments of joy as well as those that must be endured, it’s always there. Over time, it has gathered memories. Laughter, more difficult moments too. It’s a phrase that stays with me, that evolves as I do. We grow together. And I feel this is only the beginning.

DISCO
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Atelier Fays
10110 Celles-sur-Ource

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